I prefer whip stitching for this seam, it is easy and durable. When sewing the seam allowance down like this, you save time and make the seam more durable since the fabrics will be sewn twice to each other. Now you have a neat looking fold, ready to be fastened down. To avoid fraying and loose threads, fold in the edge of the fabric under the seam allowance. Now we are going to save some time with a folded over seam allowance! (photos below in 10.) Trim one side of the seam allowance down to approx half-width (5-6 mm) and then fold the larger one over this, press in place. Press the seam allowance to either side.Ĩ. Sew it in place, using running stitches or back stitches. Pin one sleeve to the armhole of the shirt, right side against right side (this photo show a shaped armhole). Thread a needle (the needle should be as small as possible, but thicker than the thread to make it easy to sew), and make a knot at the other end.ħ. ![]() Coat it with bee´s vax by pulling the thread over the vax piece a couple of times. ![]() Cut a piece of linen thread, the length of your arm. Putting in pins alongside the fabric edge makes it easier to avoid stabbing yourself when handling the project.Ģ. Adjusting neck-hole, adjusting sleeve length to your wrist, hemming.ġ. The order of sewing is as following, I will walk you through every step below: shoulder seams if any, sleeves to shoulders, side gores if any, sew together sleeves and sides. Everything seems good? Cut the fabric pieces out! (you may also want to mark them Front, Back, Sleeves if you are unsure.) A ruler, a large book or a straight stick can be used to make the lines even. Use a piece of chalk suitable for fabric, or if you don’t have that a pencil. When you have drafted all your pieces on paper as above, you are ready to draft them onto your fabric! Iron the fabric and lay it down on a flat surface, draft all your pieces and check the measures with a measuring tape. The seam should still be hanging slightly below your shoulder, not at the top of it. Cut 4 cm (small/medium) to 6 cm (large/xl) from the shoulder top (4) and create a gentle curve to the armpit, or draw a straight line from the top (4) to the armpit (see photo further below). If you feel that the shoulders are a bit wide, you may shape the armholes a bit (common if you have a large chest but narrow shoulders). You can always draw it out, cut a little, try it on, draw a bit more, cut and so on, until you are satisfied with the look. If you don’t want a slit, you might need to make the neck opening a bit deeper/wider in order to fit your head. If I want a slit at the front (3) I cut it around another 10 cm deep. The back I cut out around 5-6 cm deep, the front (2) is cut 10-15 cm deep. These are my general measures: small-medium: 1 = 18 cm. ![]() When measuring for a fitted sleeve, always measure around your bent elbow. I recommend drafting the front, back and side gores either along or across the length of the fabric (do all these in the same direction) the sleeve may go along or across, depending on what is more convenient (the shirt will look better with this method).Ī note on sleeve measures: this sleeve doesn’t sit on top of the shoulder when finished, it hangs on your upper arm (see photo at the beginning), which makes this measuring method work. This is just an example, do a draft with your measures and lay out the pieces in a way that suits you. As you can see if you would like to have side gores instead of slits in your shirt, nr. I will add 1 cm, between 1-2 cm is recommended.Įxample: Add 1 cm to all edges around your pieces, like this: The space between seam and fabric edge= seam allowance. What is that? Seams always need to be a bit from the edge of the fabric in order to be durable. That’s it! (we already added ease into the sleeve by making sure we could pull the hand through, and the sleeve base by adding extra room there) Split this measure in 2 for front and back: 53 cm each. I usually calculate 6% of the circumference around your body, 10% if I want a loose fit.Įxample: 100 cm + 6 cm (6% of 100 cm) =106 cm. Therefore, we will add extra space for movement. ![]() What is that? If you were going to cut out your pieces with the above measures, the shirt would fit tight along your skin, making it impossible to move, or take it on and off. This means the sleeve base will be 60 cm, and the armhole on the body parts will be 30 cm on front and 30 on back. Circumference around your hand/wrist: 28 cm Length of sleeve from shoulder to wrist: 70 cm Circumference around the widest part of your upper body, often the chest: 100 cm. Lenght of finished shirt from shoulder to hemline: 100 cm Example (with measures) so you can see how I do this:
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